Compound Interest Calculator
Interest that earns interest bends the curve upward. See how far a starting amount plus monthly savings can travel, and how much of the finish line is growth rather than deposits.
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Inputs
The lump sum you're starting with today.
Expected average yearly return, before taxes and fees.
How often interest is added to the balance. Monthly contributions are always summed over one period and credited at that period's end — see the FAQ below for why.
How long you plan to let the investment grow.
Amount you'll add at the end of each month.
Result
- Final balance
- $196,665.39
- Total contributed
- $82,000.00
- Interest earned
- $114,665.39
10,000 × (1 + 0.005833)^240 + 300 × ((1 + 0.005833)^240 − 1) / 0.005833 = 196,665.39 [monthly, n=240]
Year-by-year breakdown
Aggregated by year. Figures are rounded, so yearly rows may differ slightly from the totals above.
| Year | Contributed ($) | Growth ($) | Balance ($) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 13,600 | 841 | 14,441 |
| 2 | 17,200 | 2,002 | 19,202 |
| 3 | 20,800 | 3,508 | 24,308 |
| 4 | 24,400 | 5,383 | 29,783 |
| 5 | 28,000 | 7,654 | 35,654 |
| 6 | 31,600 | 10,349 | 41,949 |
| 7 | 35,200 | 13,500 | 48,700 |
| 8 | 38,800 | 17,138 | 55,938 |
| 9 | 42,400 | 21,299 | 63,699 |
| 10 | 46,000 | 26,022 | 72,022 |
How it works
FormulaA = P(1+r)^n + PMT × ((1+r)^n − 1) / r, where r is the monthly rate and n is the number of months; if r = 0, A = P + PMT × n.
Compound interest is interest calculated on both your original principal and the interest that has already accumulated. Simple interest, by contrast, is calculated only on the principal, so it grows in a straight line. A $10,000 investment earning 7% simple interest gains exactly $700 every year. The same $10,000 compounding monthly at 7% gains a similar amount in year one, but by year ten each year's gain is larger than the last, because interest is now earning interest on itself. This calculator uses monthly compounding — the more common convention for savings and brokerage accounts — so gains are added to the balance twelve times a year rather than once.
A quick way to estimate how long money takes to double, without touching a calculator, is the rule of 72: divide 72 by the annual rate of return, and the result is roughly the number of years to double. At a 6% annual return, that's 72 ÷ 6 = 12 years, close to the true value of about 11.9 years from the exact compounding formula. At 8%, the rule predicts 9 years, again nearly identical to the actual 9.0 years. The shortcut gets noticeably less accurate at higher rates — at 20%, it predicts 3.6 years while the true doubling time is closer to 3.8 years, and the gap widens further from there. It also silently assumes one constant rate with no withdrawals or added contributions along the way, so treat it as a mental estimate, not a substitute for running the actual numbers.
Time matters more than the rate you earn, because compounding is exponential rather than linear, and a decade's head start can be worth more than most people expect. Take $10,000 invested once, with nothing added afterward, at a steady 7% annual return: left alone for 40 years it grows to roughly $149,700, but the same $10,000 invested for only 30 years — because the investor started a decade later — reaches about $76,120. Waiting ten extra years to begin costs roughly $73,600 in this example, nearly half of what the earlier investor ends up with, even though both contributed the exact same amount of money. Small differences in starting date compound into large differences in outcome, which is why the biggest lever most people have isn't finding a higher return, it's starting sooner.
Regular monthly contributions change the shape of the curve. Adding even a modest amount every month — the same principle behind automatic 401(k) or IRA contributions — means new money keeps entering the account at today's dollar amount while older contributions keep compounding. Over a working career, most of the final balance in a retirement account often comes from contributions plus compounding on those contributions, not just the initial deposit. Long-run U.S. stock market returns, such as the S&P 500's historical average, are sometimes used as a rough reference point for the rate field, but past performance never guarantees future results.
Where the money sits changes the arithmetic more than most people expect, because in the United States the question is whether growth is taxed every year or only at the end. Inside a taxable brokerage account, dividends and interest are taxed in the year they arrive, so the share handed to the IRS never gets to compound. Qualified dividends fall into the 0%, 15%, or 20% brackets, but a dividend only qualifies if you held the shares more than 60 days during the 121-day period beginning 60 days before the ex-dividend date; miss that window and it is taxed as ordinary income. Higher earners add the 3.8% Net Investment Income Tax, charged on the lesser of net investment income or the amount by which modified adjusted gross income exceeds $200,000 for single filers and $250,000 for joint filers. Those two thresholds are written into the statute and are not indexed for inflation, so more households drift across them every year. The drag is easy to see: $10,000 at 7% for 30 years reaches about $76,120 with nothing removed, but skim 15% off the gain annually and the effective rate falls to roughly 5.95%, landing near $56,600 instead.
The same question is why a 401(k), a traditional IRA, or a Roth IRA behaves so differently from a plain brokerage account holding the identical fund. In the first two, growth is deferred and the tax arrives on withdrawal; in a Roth, qualified withdrawals come out untaxed. Nothing about the underlying investment changed, only how many times a slice is taken along the way, and that alone can decide which of two otherwise identical savers finishes ahead. To approximate a taxable account here, lower the rate you enter by your expected annual tax bite. To model a tax-advantaged one, enter the gross rate and keep in mind that a traditional account still owes tax at the far end.
How often interest compounds also matters, though usually less than people assume. Take $10,000 growing at a nominal 6% annual rate for 20 years: compounded once a year it reaches about $32,071; compounded monthly, the same nominal rate produces about $33,106 — roughly $1,000 more, a difference of about 3%. Switching from monthly to daily compounding adds only about another $95, well under a tenth of a percent. Moving from annual to monthly compounding has a real but modest effect, while moving from monthly to daily makes almost no practical difference. The rate itself matters far more than how finely it is sliced.
That small gap is exactly why American banks advertise deposits as an APY instead of a plain rate. The annual percentage yield already folds in how often the institution compounds, so two accounts quoting the same APY pay the same over a year even if one credits daily and the other monthly. This calculator works the other way around: you give it a nominal rate and a compounding frequency, and together they reproduce that APY. The practical rule is to compare a certificate of deposit against a high-yield savings account on APY alone, and to remember that loans are quoted as APR, which points in the opposite direction because it adds fees rather than compounding.
A steady annual rate is a simplification real markets don't follow, and volatility itself quietly erodes returns in a way a simple average return can hide. Imagine a portfolio that gains 50% in one year and then loses 50% the next: the arithmetic average of those two returns is 0%, which sounds like breaking even, but the actual result is a 25% loss overall — $10,000 grows to $15,000 and then falls back to $7,500. The rate that truly describes what happened is the geometric mean, about −13.4% per year, not the 0% arithmetic average. This gap between the two kinds of average is sometimes called volatility drag: the more a return swings up and down around its average, the more it eats into the compounding you actually experience, even when the simple average return still looks perfectly respectable.
The most useful thing to do with the balance at the bottom of this page is to change one input and watch what moves. Add a year of saving. Add a percentage point of return. Add fifty dollars a month. The ranking of those three levers is frequently the opposite of what intuition suggests, and seeing it once tends to settle arguments that spreadsheets full of assumptions never do. Two things travel with every result. Fees compound just as returns do, so a one-percentage-point annual fee turns a 7% gross return into 6% net and shrinks $10,000 over 30 years from about $76,120 to about $57,435, nearly $18,700 lost to costs alone. And every figure here is nominal rather than real: a balance growing 7% a year while prices rise 3% is gaining purchasing power at closer to 4%, so subtract your inflation assumption from the rate before entering it if you want the answer in today's dollars. The calculator also assumes one steady rate forever, which no market has ever provided. Read the output as an educational simulation of compounding under assumptions you chose, not a forecast or a recommendation.
Frequently asked questions
- What's the difference between compound interest and simple interest?
- Simple interest only applies to your original principal, so it grows by the same dollar amount every year. Compound interest applies to your principal plus all interest already earned, so the amount added grows larger over time even at the same rate. Over short periods the two look similar; over decades the gap becomes dramatic.
- Does this calculator account for inflation?
- No. The final balance shown is a nominal figure — it doesn't subtract inflation's effect on purchasing power. If you want a rough sense of real growth, subtract your assumed inflation rate from the annual return rate before entering it. A balance that grows 7% a year while prices rise 3% a year is really growing your buying power at closer to 4% a year.
- Why does starting early matter so much?
- Because compounding is exponential, money invested earlier has more compounding periods behind it. Two extra decades of growth can outweigh contributing significantly more money later, since each year builds on a larger base. A single lump sum invested a decade earlier, with nothing else added, can end up worth nearly double a later start of the same size.
- What is the rule of 72, and how accurate is it?
- It's a mental shortcut for estimating how long an investment takes to double: divide 72 by the annual rate of return. At 6% or 8% it lines up closely with the exact answer from this calculator's formula. It gets noticeably less precise at high rates, and it always assumes one constant rate with no added contributions, so treat it as a quick estimate rather than a substitute for the actual calculation.
- If my average return is 0%, how can I still lose money?
- Because a simple average hides how volatility compounds. A portfolio that gains 50% one year and loses 50% the next has an arithmetic average return of 0%, but it actually loses 25% overall, since the gain and loss apply to different balances. The rate that reflects what really happened is the geometric mean, which is always lower than the arithmetic average whenever returns vary. This effect, sometimes called volatility drag, is one reason a steady, lower return can outperform an average-looking but choppy one.
- How much does tax slow compounding down in a taxable account?
- Enough to change the answer. In a US taxable brokerage account, dividends and interest are taxed in the year received, so that money never compounds. Qualified dividends are taxed at 0%, 15%, or 20%, and a dividend only qualifies if you held the shares for more than 60 days during the 121-day period beginning 60 days before the ex-dividend date. Above $200,000 of modified adjusted gross income for single filers or $250,000 for joint filers, the 3.8% Net Investment Income Tax applies on top, and those thresholds are not adjusted for inflation. Losing 15% of each year's gain turns a 7% return into about 5.95%, which over 30 years is the difference between roughly $76,120 and roughly $56,600 on a $10,000 start.
- My bank quotes an APY and my loan quotes an APR. Which one goes in the rate field?
- Neither directly. This calculator takes a nominal annual rate plus a compounding frequency, and those two together produce the APY. If all you have is an APY, entering it with annual compounding gets you very close, because the APY already accounts for the compounding the bank performs. APR is a borrowing measure: it folds fees into the cost of credit rather than describing how often interest is credited, so the two are not interchangeable.
- Is monthly compounding the same as how my bank or brokerage calculates returns?
- Many savings accounts and investment platforms do compound monthly or even daily, but conventions vary. Check your specific account's terms — this calculator's monthly-compounding assumption is a common approximation, not a universal standard. The difference between monthly and daily compounding is usually small in practice.
- What happens to monthly contributions when compounding is not monthly?
- The calculator adds up the monthly contributions made during one compounding period and treats that total as if it were deposited in one lump sum at the end of the period, then plugs it into the standard compound-interest-plus-annuity formula. That keeps the math something you can check by hand with a single formula, and choosing "Monthly" reproduces the exact same result as before this option existed. In practice the assumption is mildly conservative: money contributed early in a longer period, say the first month of a quarter, is treated as earning no interest until that quarter ends, so the total shown can come out a little lower than what an account crediting interest more often would actually pay.
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Last updated: 2026-08-22